Canals, Cobblestones and Cuberdons -- My Top 7 Memories in Amsterdam and Belgium

Hello, friends!  Well, what else can I start with besides saying 'it's been a while'? Rest assured, I have plenty of perfectly legitimate and not at all lame excuses!

• First of all, I decided I wanted to blog about vegan food, so I started a new blog over on Wordpress and that was taking priority for a while. While I'm not always having exciting adventures, I am basically always stuffing my face, so I figured I'd at least always have material.

• Secondly: I mean... do I really want my last post to forever be an angry rant about the idiot who stole my camera? I feel like anyone reading would just assume I became extremely bitter and gave up on travel forever;

• But mostly: This blog was created to document the exciting adventure of moving abroad, teaching, and travelling. But you know what? After nearly two years (!!) of living abroad, it just seems a bit more like normal life and somehow a bit less blog-worthy. Bristol feels like home now, and I've been working at the same school for nearly a year. While the "woah, I'm living in England" factor may have worn off to some extent, it's been replaced by a sort of warm and comfortable familiarity. As I look forward to my next adventure, I find myself becoming nostalgic for little things about my Bristol life. Is it possible to be nostalgic about something that's still technically happening? I vote yes. I'm pre-nostalgic.

However, I promised myself that I would continue writing this blog despite my tendency to abandon projects when I get a bit restless -- because one day, I will be really glad that I can look back on these experiences and remember the amazing things that I've had the privilege of doing and seeing during my time living in England.

Moving on, this post is not about Bristol and nostalgia -- it's about exploring somewhere brand new! During the last term break, my two dearest Bristol Canadians Beth and Andrea joined me on a week-long trip that included Amsterdam, as well as Ghent, Bruges, and Antwerp in Belgium. So without further ado, here is my list of my Top 7 Memories from these amazing cities!

1. Wandering Amsterdam by Day
I saw a post on one of those Facebook meme pages that said "If you go to Amsterdam and don't take a photo of yourself on a bridge with the canal in the background, did you really even go to Amsterdam?" All I can say to that is, well, I definitely did go to Amsterdam then.

Aside from taking slightly unoriginal but still quintessential tourist photos, there's plenty to do in Amsterdam by day. My eyes have recently been opened to the wonders of the Hop On, Hop Off bus tour after having taken one in both Dublin and Gozo and realizing they are actually really useful and informative. But Amsterdam, always one to be unique, offers a Hop On, Hop Off BOAT tour. Basically, if you are not down to figure out the public transit situation and are mildly terrified of cycling without a helmet (why does nobody wear helmets here??) then it's a great way to get around. It's definitely not for anyone in a rush though. We learned some interesting things through the boat tour -- did you know that the houses here lean forward and have hooks hanging from the top so that furniture can be hauled up to the top floor without damaging the house?

Even though the weather was a bit chilly, Amsterdam was still such a pleasant city to wander around. IF YOU DON'T MIND ALMOST DYING EVERY FIVE MINUTES BECAUSE YOU FORGOT BIKE LANES EXISTED. I wonder how many distracted tourists get taken out by cyclists every year in Amsterdam?

The bike lanes were nothing like Bristol's, where they seem to stop and start at will, making cycling just a bit nerve-wracking at best. They are wide, clearly marked, and continuous. I think people cycle without helmets because they legitimately feel really safe riding their bike around the city.

Anyway, here are some daytime sights in Amsterdam worth checking out if you feel pretty confident about not getting taken out by a bike: 

• The Van Gogh Museum (which is located in a lovely park... grab a picnic lunch from the nearby Albert Heijn supermarket and lounge in the sun before learning about the fascinating Vincent Van Gogh).

• Vondelpark: A nice big park to stroll around, or if you are dorks like us, to sit in front of a little tulip garden and have a photo shoot).

• Albert Cuyp Market: A strange and eclectic mix of clothes, poorly translated tourist merch, and delicious food.
• Bloemenmarket: A colourful flower market located along a row of floating barges.
• Foodhallen: I think this was one of our favourite places, because we love food and all have different dietary needs and preferences. It's an indoor food truck market and it's got such a great variety that everyone can grab something completely different, and happily munch away together. I got an awesome vegan burrito which I will come back to later on in this list.

2. Wandering Amsterdam by Night

At night, we decided to take the "Red Light District Tour" offered by our hostel. A tall, bearded Dutchman named Mo was our trusted guide to the weird and wonderful world of Amsterdam by night. I have to say, although I knew the basic idea behind the Red Light District, I somehow didn't expect it to be quite so... blatant? It was somewhat shocking to see scantily dressed ladies flaunting it all behind glass windows, as well as men nonchalantly wandering in. However, Mo addressed the subject in a respectful and educational manner -- as part of his personal research for his tour, he visited one of these women -- but asked for only conversation, as he wanted to know what their lives were like, how much they earned, and how they felt about their jobs. The women here are actually self-employed and rent the windows out. 

Despite its reputation, the Red Light District is far from seedy -- it's  actually one of the safest and most highly policed and monitored area of the city. 

And you can also buy a burger from a vending machine!

We also learned about why Amsterdam has the relaxed attitude that they do about certain substances. Essentially, as Mo explained, "adults are treated as adults here", and this system has worked well. Apparently, there are legal services available in Amsterdam where people can anonymously test drugs -- legal or illegal -- to ensure that they are not laced with something more dangerous, for example. For better or for worse, this city definitely has a very unique attitude towards things that much of the world considers a bit taboo.

3. Ghent's Quaint and Quirky Charm

Our Airbnb home was just a bit further down this street.

After leaving Amsterdam, we hopped on a bus and crossed the border into Belgium. Having a private Air Bnb was definitely welcome -- our hostel was nice, but there's just something about being able to go to the bathroom without putting on flip flops or having to triple check that you remembered your key card. It helped that our host (who owned the home attached to our private loft space) was incredibly helpful, kind and welcoming. Everything about Ghent was charming -- the cobbled streets (travelled by the occasional horse and carriage), the numerous beautiful churches, the narrow, quiet alleyways. However, one alley in particular stuck out a bit... Make a wrong turn in Ghent and you're suddenly transported into a vividly colourful world known as Graffiti Alley. Local graffiti artists are given free reign to paint here to their heart's content. And it makes for some awesome photos.

You can also go up to the top of the Belfry (for a small fee) if you are a fan of nice views and don't get claustrophobic on narrow, winding stairs.

Make sure to try the traditional Belgian sweet called Cuberdon (otherwise known as 'Nose candies', and 'What are these things called again'?). But don't buy them from this dude, as he was the most pretentious and snarky Cuberdon seller I've ever met. Also the only one, but still.

4. That Pub in Ghent Where You Trade Your Shoe For Beer

I found 'De Dulle Griet' by googling "The best pubs in Ghent" and decided almost immediately that we had to check it out. The concept: You can order one of their over 500 kinds of beer, but the one that we were after was named MAX. It's served in a comically tall two-pint glass that is extremely thin in the middle. In order to ensure that you don't steal or break this glass, you must offer up one of your shoes as a deposit. The bartender rings a bell, lowers a basket from the ceiling, and in goes your shoe until you return the glass. Full disclosure: the basket was too full of shoes when we first came in, so the bartender had to keep ours elsewhere. However, we really wanted our full ridiculous experience, so we apologized to the bartender for being annoying tourists, but could he please put our shoes in the basket and ring the bell? He did, and it was glorious.

5. Wandering and Windmill Hunting in Bruges
Like Ghent, Bruges was also impossibly quaint, with its cobbled streets, canals, and charming brick houses.

It also has a more modern section, with chain shops, chocolate shops, tourist shops, waffle stands, did I mention chocolate shops? Those streets smelled AMAZING. While sitting in a cafe browsing around on Google Maps, we saw that there were also some windmills nearby. Having been to The Netherlands and not seeing any windmills, we were pretty excited. Naturally, we made our way over and took ridiculous photos of ourselves pretending to be windmills in front of them. That's what normal people do, right?

Not pictured: Idiots waving their arms around in front of the mills (us)

6. Antwerp's Classic meets Modern Vibe

I must admit -- Antwerp, you were a bit of a wildcard. We were not 100% sure what to expect from this city, but in my opinion it exceeded my (lack of) expectations. It actually kind of reminded me of Bristol a little bit, and had a much more 'happening' vibe than Ghent and Bruges, beautiful as they were. The latter towns really felt like they were made for the relaxed holidayer looking to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life. Antwerp felt less like a storybook town and more like a modern city. Ghent and Bruges felt a bit removed from the struggles of modern life, while Antwerp brought us back to reality. However, you will still find plenty of art and beautiful architecture there, as well as lively pubs, cobblestones, and gorgeous squares where one can sit on a sunny patio and watch life go by

                                             .

Have I mentioned that Antwerp Central station is arguably the world's most beautiful train station?

                                                                

Make sure to visit the MAS (Museum aan de Stroom) -- you can climb to the top for free and experience a panoramic view of the city!

7. Stuffing My Face With Vegan Food

I have to mention it, because there was so much amazing vegan food in all of the cities that we visited and also I am obsessed with food. Instead of telling you all about it, let me show you. If you're hungry, maybe scroll past quickly.

Plus + in Bruges

BEO Organic in Ghent

Maoz in Amsterdam -- Build your own pita!

Vegan burrito and nachos at Foodhallen, Amsterdam

De Rosenobel - Almost entirely vegan Pay by Weight restaurant, Antwerp

Greenway, a Belgian vegetarian fast food chain (Antwerp). Can we get these everywhere, stat?

So, now that I'm writing this, really wishing that I lived anywhere close to these restaurants, I think I'll bring this post to a close. If you're still with me, thanks for reading and I applaud you for your attention span. Have you been to any of these cities? If so, what were your best moments? If not, which place would you most like to visit?

Until next time,
-- C

A Week in Barcelona

Well, I promised I would write about Spain (mostly to myself) and have put it off long enough. So here I am, curled up with my laptop on a cool, rainy September day in Bristol. Today, sunny Barcelona in its sun-baked reds and oranges seems to be a world away.

Maybe that's why I've decided to reminisce a little -- the mental version of drinking a nice hot, comforting cup of tea (see how British I've become?). Speaking of which, I'm going to grab myself a literal cup of tea and then tell you about my top eight places, sights and moments in Barcelona. (Like Myspace top eight! Remember? Anyone?)

Just to set the scene a little bit, Tim and I flew into Girona airport in late July, with plans to make our way to Barcelona for a week. We'd been on a couple small trips since we started dating but this was the first big one that involved flying internationally and spending more than a weekend somewhere. I needed it badly. After a rough end to the school year and a slightly less than summery start to the British "summer", I was craving sun, relaxation, and a bit of adventure -- all three of which are to be easily found in Barcelona. Let's move along to the list!

1. Our Air Bnb

There's a time and a place for hotels, same goes for hostels. But I have had consistently lovely experiences staying at Air Bnb homes. They're often much cheaper than a hotel, and make you feel a little more "at home" in the city you're staying in, rather than just being a tourist.  Our flat in Barcelona was no exception. Our friendly host warmly welcomed us into her home, and had no shortage of ideas on where to go around the city and how to get there. The flat was located in the district called "Les Corts", which is a bit further out from the centre of the city, and home to Camp Nou, the FC Barcelona stadium (this would be cooler if I cared more about football, but still a notable fact). We had access to the balcony, which was filled with all kinds of plants and provided a beautiful view of the sun setting over the city. I ate my breakfast and drank my coffee on the balcony every morning, slowly and leisurely, sometimes with a book and sometimes just quietly enjoying the view.When Tim and I were feeling like we had spent too much eating out at restaurants, we sat outside on the balcony dipping fresh bread in olive oil and vinegar, and topping it with avocado and tomato slices. Basically, if I can't have a garden, a balcony is an acceptable consolation.

2. Sitges
If you take a train about 30 minutes outside the city, you can visit Sitges -- a gorgeous little beach town with gorgeous cobbled streets and whitewashed buildings. Interestingly, it is also a popular LGBT friendly destination with a thriving night life. (We didn't see said night life as we are lame and got tired and went home... but that's beside the point). Barcelona has its own beaches of course, but I found the ones in Sitges to be much nicer and less packed with people. We ended the day at a very fancy looking bar where you can overlook the sea from a huge, comfy sofa bed while drinking a bellini. I've never felt more like a lady of luxury.

3. The Food

Finding food in a foreign country can seem a little daunting when you have particular dietary needs/preferences. I try my best to stick to eating vegan, though I admit I do not do it perfectly. However, I always feel a little bad when I'm wandering around with a travel companion in search of food, and have to turn down restaurant after restaurant because they do not offer anything substantial for vegans. This is why I suggest doing a little research if you're in the same boat as me -- I google searched "vegan restaurants Barcelona" and wrote down the names of what I found (which was surprisingly a lot).

Cat Bar: Although containing no actual cats, Cat Bar served one of the best veggie burgers I've ever had alongside vegan patatas bravas and a glass of craft beer.

Vegetalia: We happened upon Vegetalia by chance while wandering around hungrily. I think I have some sort of hunger-powered vegan food sense. We ate outside in the sun and eavesdropped overheard some very loud Americans at the table beside us tell the tale of a slightly disturbing hostel experience. Lunch and a show!

La Boqueria Market: It's a huge market off of La Ramblas and definitely worth a visit. We only spent a little time here, because it was insanely busy. However, we were lured in by the bright colours and fun flavours of fruit juice and had to buy one each.

                                       

Lady Green: This was a lucky find in Sitges (thanks vegan sixth sense). I particularly enjoyed the huge sign saying "Animals are my friends, and I don't eat my friends". I was also obsessed with their potatoes.

Perfection.

Kino: Another lucky find, this time we happened to stumble upon a very "hipster-esque" neighbourhood. We were drawn in by the lively crowds enjoying a drink outside, and intrigued by the many skateboarders hanging out and skating in the square beside it. They also had some very tasty, veggie-friendly tapas.

This is the only photo I took there...

Hidden Cafe: This minimalist-styled cafe (found in our neighbourhood, Les Corts) is a must for any coffee snobs. It's one of those places that has more ways to brew the coffee than I even knew existed, but daaaamn do they make a good cup. The staff didn't speak much English and we didn't speak much Spanish but they were super welcoming and did little things to make our visit nice -- like giving us some free matcha green tea cookies to try (it worked... I came back another day and bought more of them).

4. La Sagrada Familia
Before visiting the Sagrada Familia, I got a message from my cousin stating that if I figured that the outside of the cathedral was cool enough and skipped out on the inside, I would be making the worst mistake of my life. I'm glad we listened, because the inside was truly breathtaking. My camera couldn't capture the way the different colours of stained glass played with the natural daylight, illuminating a forest-like network of columns in different shades of deep red and blue. There was also a little mini-museum inside, explaining the various ways in which Antoni Gaudi was influenced by nature in his architecture. My top tips would be to buy advance tickets -- it's worth it to skip the line, and to visit around 6:00 PM when it's a bit less busy.

Inside.

Outside.

5. The Walks
Barcelona's Gothic Quarter is bustling and full of tourists and travellers. However, it still manages to maintain a charming, artistic vibe with hidden surprises down every little alleyway. Venture out from La Ramblas, the main tourist street, and you'll find quirky modernist architecture, cute cafes and beautiful churches. We spent a lot of our time just wandering around, seeing what we could find.

6. Montjuic Outdoor Film
Another benefit of staying at an Air Bnb is knowing about local events that you wouldn't have heard of had you stayed at a hotel. A fellow guest at the flat filled us in on the outdoor concert and movie being shown at Montjuic Castle. We hopped on a bus that took us on a winding tour up Montjuic Hill, in perfect time to watch the sun setting. We hopped off at the Castle, which used to be a military fortress but now houses a museum. Tonight, it provided the backdrop for an all-female Balkan group performing lively tunes, and a foreign film called Mandarinas. Luckily, the Russian language film was captioned in both Spanish and English. Groups of people were laid out on blankets, drinking wine and sharing picnics as we watched the film. I have decided that I really like outdoor movies, maybe because they remind me a little of going to the Drive-In theatre as a kid.

Parc Guell

7. The Parks
Barcelona has many exciting things, but not a huge amount of green spaces -- so we had to seek them out. Before visiting the Sagrada Familia, we went to Parc Guell -- a park designed by Antoni Gaudi. We walked up what was probably the steepest hill ever before realizing that there was probably a better way to get there... Anyway, the park itself was lovely -- despite the fact that you now have to pay to get into the "good part", where the majority of the artistic features are. Still a nice way to pass an afternoon. The Parc de la Citaduella was another green space within the city with a bit less of a hike, and a huge, golden-detailed fountain. Fun fact: this park used to be the only green space in the city, and remained so for several decades following its creation in 1877. It also contains the Barcelona Zoo, I'm a bit torn on how I feel about zoos, but this one seemed to be one of the better ones, with lots of space and mental stimulation for the animals. 

Parc de le Citaduella

Also Parc de le Citaduella

8. Girona
We spent a day here before flying back home -- and I'm really glad we did. Girona is full of medieval architecture, adorable little shops and is watched over by a towering Gothic cathedral. It has also been used as the filming location for various Game of Thrones episodes (which I have yet to watch because I can't figure out how to watch them without HBO... if anyone has season 5, hook a sister up). We spent our last afternoon in Spain lounging at an oasis-like outdoor bar, while musicians set up for their show later on. However, we headed back to our hotel early and enjoyed a "picnic" of whatever vegan-friendly, no cooking required foods we could find at the small grocery store. (Gazpacho from a carton served in plastic hotel cups is just as you would expect... would not reccommend).

So that's it, in a nutshell. Barcelona is an amazing city to visit, and close to several other little gems to explore. Having seven days to get to know the city was really nice, because we really didn't plan much in advance and just decided what we felt like doing that day. I guess as a teacher, you get a little tired of planning by the end of the year and just want to be spontaneous for a while. I still remember how to do that!

That's all for now, hopefully I will have more adventures and daily misadventures to tell you about soon! And hopefully next time I won 't wait like a month to actually post about them... anyway.

Until next time,

-- C.